Every September, when the first light breaks over the highlands of Utiel-Requena, our harvest begins. The mornings are cool at 800 meters of elevation a dry, bright cold that sharpens the senses and concentrates the fruit still hanging on vines that have been here for over a hundred years. VIÑA MEMORIAS But at Viña Memorias, the harvest is not only a winemaker's event. Before a single grape is crushed, our mashgiach the kosher supervisor is already in the vineyard. When the f